Macrame - Style Net Bag【Free Pattern】【Video】【Chart PDF】Crochet tutorial
Updated: Apr 17
This pattern includes a tutorial video,
and you can scroll down to see the chart!
↓↓↓Here is the PDF file.↓↓↓(You can print it from here)
↑↑↑↑↑↑↑↑↑↑↑↑↑↑↑
Hello! I'm Kaitlin.
Today, I'm going to show you
how to crochet a macrame-style bag using just one ball of yarn.
We'll be using a stitch called the Shippo stitch,
which creates a beautiful mesh-like pattern.
Since it's a fairly quick technique,
you can even finish the bag in just a few hours!
Perfect for those moments when inspiration strikes the night before—
you can have it done by the next day!
By using clear acrylic ring handles,
the finished bag has a light and breezy look—
ideal for spring and summer.
Materials:
・1 skein MIEL col.04 (110m - 120m/110g)or other worsted yarn
The video sample uses colors No. 5 and No. 12.
・3.50mm crochet hook
・Tapestry needle
・Makers
・Ring handles (outer diameter: approx. 13 cm) – 1 set (2 rings)
・Scissors
・Measuring tape
・iron
For the drawstring pouch:
• Fabric – at least 40 cm × 70 cm (adjust to fit the finished bag)
• Waxed cord – approx. 200 cm (adjust to fit the finished pouch)
• Fabric marking pen
• Bodkin (or tool for threading cord)
• Sewing machine (or hand sewing needle and thread, if sewing by hand)
• Fabric clips
Sizes:
Maximum width: approx. 38 cm
Height: approx. 43 cm (including handles)
Note: The width after completing the first round is approximately 41–44 cm.
(Depending on how the piece is laid out.)
The width will gradually become narrower
as you continue crocheting.
Let’s start by crocheting the main body of the bag.
This piece is worked using the Shippo stitch.
Shippo stitch:
Pull up a loop on the hook, extend it,
and make one chain stitch while keeping the loop elongated.
Insert the hook into the back bump of the elongated stitch
and make a single crochet. (Video 01:48 - 02:15)
All single crochet stitches,
including those at the tips of the Shippo stitches,
should be worked tightly.
・For a 1.5 cm-long Shippo stitch: extend the loop to about 1 cm.
・For a 2.5 cm-long Shippo stitch: extend the loop to about 2 cm.
Rnd 1
Ch 1, 1 Shippo (1.5 cm total length), 20 Shippo (2.5 cm total length),
2 Shippo (1.5 cm total length), 1 Shippo (2.5 cm total length), 1 sc,
(Count the sc at the tip of the prev Shippo stitch as the first stitch.
Insert the hook under both legs of the 5th sc—see chart for reference.)
(All single crochets should be worked with the double-stranded sides of the Shippo stitches facing outward.)
*2 Shippo (2.5 cm), 1 sc* repeat** 8 more times (9 times total)
1 Shippo (2.5 cm), 1 dc (1.5 cm total length).
Rnd 2
*2 Shippo (2.5cm), 1 sc (into the top of the sc from the prev rnd.) *
repeat ** 20 times more (21 times total)
1 Shippo (2.5 cm), 1 dc (2.5 cm total length)
Rnd 3-12
Repeat the same steps as Rnd 2.
Note: As you continue,
the placement of the final double crochet gradually shifts diagonally to the right.
Rnd 13
*2 Shippo (2.5cm), 1 sc* repeat ** 20 times more (21 times total),
2 Shippo (2.5cm) Attach a MA to the first of these two stitches.
Once you've completed the final stitch,
leave a yarn tail of about 10 cm and cut the yarn.
Pull the yarn through the last single crochet at the tip of the final Shippo stitch.
Thread the yarn onto a tapestry needle.
Insert the needle from front to back into the top of the sc at the tip of the Shippo stitch
that comes just before the double crochet in the previous round. (See video at 11:27)
Then, insert the needle back into the spot
where the yarn tail is coming out of the last Shippo stitch,
and bring the needle out to the wrong side of the fabric.
Weave in the yarn tail on the wrong side,
changing direction a few times to secure it without it showing on the front.
Placing the markers for the handles
Starting from the marker you placed at the end of Rnd 13,
count five Shippo motifs to the right,
and place a new MA in the fifth motif. (See video at 12:14)
Then, from that point,
count twelve more motifs to the right and place another MA. (See video at 12:28)
(Note: In the video, the second marker is placed by mistakenly counting the first marker as "1",so please refer to the video for clarification.If counted normally, it would be the 11th motif.)
Handles
Tie the yarn to the ring handle to temporarily secure it.
While holding down the yarn tail,
insert your crochet hook under the handle,
make 1 chain stitch, and pull the yarn to tighten.
Next, work a single crochet around the handle
and pull the yarn to tighten.
Make one more single crochet. Tighten the yarn again.
If the yarn doesn’t move smoothly,
remove the hook and pull the back strand of the loop to tighten.
When reinserting the hook, make sure the yarn is not twisted,
and insert it in a direction
where pulling the yarn tail causes the front strand on the hook to move.
Then, crochet 15 chain stitches a bit loosely.
Next, using the MA as a reference point,
work slip stitch into three specific spots. (See video at 13:50)
Insert the hook from the front side into the elongated loop of the left front Shippo stitch and make a sl st.
Then, insert the hook into the top of the single crochet at the tip of the right front Shippo stitch and make a sl st.
Finally, insert the hook from the front into the elongated loop of the same right Shippo stitch
and make another sl st.
Now, work half double crochets into the back bumps of the chain stitches.
Start by working a hdc into the back bump of the last chain stitch.
Then, move to the next back bump and work another hdc.
Continue this process to the end of the chain—
you should have 15 half double crochets in total,
matching the number of chain stitches.
Once you’ve finished 15 hdc,
insert the hook under the handle and make 1 sc.
Pull the yarn to tighten.
Repeat this step 2 more times for a total of 3 sc attached to the handle.
Next, crochet 14 chain stitches a bit loosely.
In the motif next to the one where you previously made slip stitches,
work 3 more sl st in the same manner as before.
After finishing the sl st,
work a hdc into the back bump of the last chain stitch.
Continue moving to the next stitch and work a total of 14 hdc,
matching the number of chain stitches.
Once the hdc are complete,
work 3 more sc onto the handle, just as before,
tightening the yarn each time.
Repeat this sequence.
Refer to the numbers shown in Chart 3/3 to adjust the number of ch and corresponding hdc,
and repeat the same process for the remaining 9 sections.
Except for the first and last points where you attach the yarn,
you should work 3 sc into the handle for each section.
After completing all 11 sections,
finish by working 2 sc into the handle,
tightening the yarn as you go.
Make 1 ch, leave about 10 cm of yarn, cut it,
and pull the yarn through the final chain.
Repeat the entire process on the other side
to attach the second handle in the same way.。
How to Change Yarn
If you come across a knot in the yarn or
if you're using leftover yarn and it’s running short,
change the yarn at a single crochet stitch.
When working a sc,
stop while the stitch is still incomplete—
with two loops on the hook.
Wrap the tail end of the old yarn over the hook from front to back.
Then, place the new yarn (leaving about 8 cm of tail) on the far side of the work
and yarn over with the new yarn.
Pull through all three loops on the hook in one motion.
Since the stitch may feel unstable at this point,
temporarily tie the two yarn ends together at the back to secure them
until you can weave them in later. Then, continue crocheting as usual.
Weaving in the Ends
To finish the yarn tail at the end of the handle section,
thread the tail onto a tapestry needle.
Weave the needle through the legs of nearby hdc,
taking care not to let the stitches show on the front.
Go back one stitch and weave the needle through again to secure the yarn.
For the yarn tail at the beginning of the handle section,
untie the temporary knot,
thread the tail onto a needle,
and weave it through the legs of nearby hdc,
just as you did at the end.
Go back one stitch and weave through again to secure,
making sure it doesn’t show on the front side.
For the yarn tail at the beginning of the main body,
weave the needle through several nearby stitches on the inside of the bag,
keeping it invisible from the front side.
If you changed yarn partway through,
first untie the temporary knot.
Then, being careful not to pull too tightly on the nearby Shippo stitches,
weave the yarn tail through several stitches near the join.
Change direction and weave through a few more stitches to secure the yarn neatly.
Steam Blocking
Hold the iron above the fabric and apply plenty of steam to shape the piece.
Be careful around the handles as you steam the entire surface of the fabric.
Apply steam to the hdc sections as well,
and gently shape them so they lay straight.
Drawstring Pouch
First, cut the fabric.Measure the widest part of the finished bag’s bottom.
In this project, it measured approximately 38 cm,
so I added a 2 cm seam allowance and set the fabric width to 40 cm.
For the height, I made one side slightly longer at 32 cm,
added a 3 cm seam allowance,
then doubled that for both front and back sides,
setting the total height to 70 cm.
(Since the fabric used here has no directional pattern, the pouch will be made by folding a single piece of fabric.)
① Cut the fabric to 40 cm × 70 cm.
Place the fabric vertically with the wrong side facing up.
Fold 1 cm of fabric at both the top and bottom edges and press with an iron.
Then fold another 2 cm and press again. (See video at 22:14)
② Unfold the second fold, leaving the 1 cm fold in place,
and sew a zigzag stitch (or use an overlock stitch) along both vertical edges.
If hand sewing, you can use a blanket stitch instead.
③ Next, from the top and bottom edges where you folded 1 cm,
measure 5 cm downward (or upward)
and mark four points. (See video at 22:48)
Make the marks about 1 cm in from the left and right edges.
④ Fold the fabric in half with the right sides facing together.
⑤ Sew a straight line from each marked point down toward the bottom edge.
Be sure to backstitch at the beginning and end. (See video at 23:07)
Press open both the sewn seams
and the unsewn sections with an iron. (See video at 23:22)
⑥ Sew around the unsewn openings in a U-shape. (See video at 23:35)
Backstitch at the beginning, end,
and at the bottom of the opening (3 points total).
⑦ Fold the top edge along the 2 cm crease you previously pressed,
and sew a straight line about 0.5cm from the folded edge. (See video at 24:22)
Repeat the same on the other side.
Turn the finished pouch right side out.
Prepare two pieces of waxed cord,
each approximately (bag width + 12 cm) × 2 in length.
Use a bodkin (or threading tool) to insert one cord through the casing.
Tie the ends of the cord tightly together and trim any excess.
Thread the second cord through the casing from the opposite side.
Once you’ve placed the drawstring pouch inside the bag...
You’re all done! Great job! ♪
The shape of the bag will naturally change depending on
what you put inside,
so it also works perfectly as a market bag.
If you prefer to keep its shape more structured,
feel free to use the drawstring pouch pattern as a guide to sew in a fabric lining.
I regularly share other crochet patterns and tutorials as well—
so be sure to check out my other blog posts,
YouTube channel, Instagram, and LINE stickers too!
Thank you so much for reading all the way to the end! ☻
st(s) = stitch(es)ch = chain
sc = single crochet
rnd(s) = round(s)
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
sl st = slip stitch
prev = previous
Shippo = Shippo stitch
MA = marker